First Day in Isfahan Finally, we are in the city of Isfahan, which I have heard a lot about and is also known as “half the world”, “dream city” and “dream city”. The sentence “Isfahan is half the world”, said during the Safavid period, is still valid today. This is truly the most beautiful city of Iran with its historical monuments of traditional Iranian architecture and the most valuable works of Islamic architecture. Isfahan is also a city famous for its square, which is the largest square in the country and the second largest in the world. Abbasi Hotel with its Legendary Garden In this city whose fame has spread all over the world, we will stay in a hotel that is equally famous, especially with its legendary garden: the 5-star Abbasi Hotel. I care about hotels in the countries I visit, I usually want to stay in the best hotel in the city or region. Of course, I prefer 5-star hotels if their prices are not abnormally expensive. The most important feature I look for in hotels is their emphasis on cleanliness and hygiene. Of course, it would be great if the staff was friendly. The hotels we stayed in Iran were better than we expected. We also have high expectations for Abbasi Hotel. We were informed that the rooms overlooking the hotel’s garden were rented at a price difference of 150 dollars compared to other rooms. This price difference seemed meaningless and unnecessary to me, because we do not spend much time at the hotel, we leave in the morning and come back in the evening and sometimes we even eat outside the hotel. It seemed more logical to me to spend time in the garden instead of watching it from the room. It was a very good decision, we had a very pleasant time in the garden, even if it was short, and we went to our rooms just to sleep and fell asleep immediately due to the tiredness of the day. As soon as we entered the hotel, we found ourselves in a magnificent lobby. Everywhere is bright; The walls, ceilings, doors, stairs and decorations are incredible. This is an old caravanserai. The facade of the building is truly impressive with its iwans, vaults and wonderful decorations. This historical building was later converted into a hotel by making additions. The garden is truly as beautiful as described. There are various kinds of trees. Different types of flowers, especially fruit trees, immediately attract your attention. The beauty of the historical building has been added to the beauty of the historical building with the pool in the middle, fountains, elegant and decorative garden lamps, and successful landscaping work. You can enjoy tea and coffee in various seating groups. When we were in Iran, dinner was served in the garden as it was still summer days. We also enjoyed the garden with both food and tea and coffee. However, although the rooms are not problematic in terms of cleanliness, they are left quite neglected in terms of plumbing, decor and furniture. I think the reputation of the garden is enough to market the hotel so they don’t care about the rooms. Important Buildings in the City If we talk a little about the city; We can say that it is a heartwarming place, built at the foothills of the Zagros Mountains, with its centuries-old trees and parks on the roadsides. This is a city that will fascinate you with its green areas on both sides of the Zayende River, which passes through the middle of the city. Isfahan; It is a very modern and orderly city in terms of its architectural structure. Isfahan owes its fame and beauty largely to Shah Abbas, who rebuilt the city as the capital of the Safavids. The city, which was built in full compliance with the zoning plan, developed further after becoming the capital of the Persian Empire for the second time in the 16th century. Even today, it maintains its compliance with the old development plan and its past glory. City; It is very famous for its beautiful boulevards, bridges, palaces, mosques and minarets, and especially for its reflection of Islamic architecture. It is certain that the Zayende River, which passes through the middle of the city and cuts the city from west to east, adds a completely different beauty to the city (even though we cannot see it, it is easy to imagine). There are 3 bridges over the river. The first of these is the Allahverdi or Si-o-se-pol (33 arches) Bridge. This bridge connects two large and important streets of the city. The bridge, which dates back to 1602, was built by Shah Abbas. The bridge, which is 360 meters long and 14 meters wide, was also used as a small dam. The legs of the 3-storey bridge are 4 meters thick. Unfortunately, on the days we were there, there was no water in the river and it was completely dry, so we were able to visit the flooded parts of the bridge. The second bridge is Kacu Bridge. Although it is shorter than the others (132 meters), it is the most famous bridge here. It was built by Shah Abbas II for royal structures on the riverside and to create an artificial pond. There are dam gates on the lower level of the two-storey bridge. Kacu Bridge, like other bridges, also serves as a dam. A nice section in the middle of the bridge attracts attention. This was a small pavilion built for Shah Abbas. It was once Shah Pahlavi’s private lodge, where he could enjoy himself by sipping his drink and watching the river. Although not much remains, the tile decorations can be seen here and there. The third and last bridge is the Shahrastan Bridge. It is thought that its feet date from the Sasanian and Achaemenid periods, and the entire structure dates from the Seljuk period. There are a total of 13 arches on the bridge, which is 143 meters long. All three bridges were built with truly advanced engineering knowledge at that time. Both sides of the river are truly wonderful with green areas and parks. Families walk, run and picnic with their children under the centuries-old trees. There is no construction inside, including a cafe. Modern sculptures in the parks also attract attention. Rich History of the City To briefly talk about the history of the city; The history of Isfahan dates back to the Paleolithic Age. It is known that the first settlement was during the Medes time. At that time, the city was one of the most important cities of the Medes. M.S. It fell into Muslim hands in 642. Tuğrul Bey, the founder of the Seljuk dynasty, made the city his capital in the mid-11th century. Under the rule of his grandson Melikşah, the city grew and prospered, and the construction of the famous Isfahan Masjid al-Juma began during this period. After the collapse of the Seljuk dynasty, Isfahan entered a period of decline.13. Although the city was first taken by Genghis Khan in the 16th century, it was not destroyed. However, it was plundered by Timur in the 14th century and the people of the city were massacred. The city, which started to develop again during the Safavid period, was finally rebuilt when Shah Abbas I made Isfahan the capital. It has developed as one of the largest and most beautiful cities in the country. Thus, the brightest period of Isfahan began with many architectural wonders. As I said before, Isfahan owes its fame to Shah Abbas. Since many western artists and craftsmen lived in Isfahan during this period, the city became one of the important centers of the world. This bright period lasted more than a century. Later, the city was occupied by Afghans and the capital was moved to Mashhad by Nadir Shah. Tehran became the capital during the Qajar Dynasty. Many of the historical buildings in the city, whose reconstruction started during the Reza Shah Pahlavi period (1925-1941), were repaired. In Isfahan, traditional products such as handicrafts, tiles, carpets and cotton fabrics began to develop during this period. The Islamic works that make Isfahan so famous that it can be called “half the world” are so magnificent that they overshadow all other works in Iran. Now we can start visiting the unique architectural works that will help us understand the art of the country. Second Day in Isfahan We enjoyed the beautiful garden of our hotel last night, as I explained yesterday, the garden is wonderful but the rooms are poorly maintained. The food was a disaster, I can even say that it was the worst meal we had in Iran. But we have eaten so much since we arrived that these dishes cannot spoil our joy. We drink our tea among the beauties of the garden and go to our rooms early to rest. We relieve our tiredness after the 4-hour bus ride from Yazd. Because it is the last 2 days of our trip and there are many places to see and visit. Pir-i Bakran Tomb The first place we will visit after breakfast is the Pir-i Bakran Tomb, 30 km away from the city, dating back to the 14th century and built during the Ilkhanid Olcaytu period. When you look at it from the entrance, it looks like a dilapidated building and there doesn’t seem to be much to see inside. The garden gate is locked, it is obvious that not many people come and go. Our guide calls the guard and has him open the door. When we enter, we encounter a courtyard that resembles a mosque. At one point, we pass by and suddenly we are all shocked by what we see. We have a view similar to the door of the Sivas Divriği Grand Mosque, but much more magnificent. This is a work of art containing Thuluth and Kufic inscriptions, decorated with magnificent stuccos, and magnificent decorations made by embossing the stone and marble walls on all four sides. (Stükko; low and high shapes found on the surface of workable materials such as clay, plaster, stone) I think photographs will explain much better what I cannot explain. I am very pleased to come here and see such an important and beautiful tomb. I think it would be much more appropriate to visit, see and understand our mosque in Divriği after seeing this place. (Sivas Divriği Grand Mosque was built by Ahmet Şah in the 13th century and is a complete work of art with its fine carvings and stonework on its door. It is also on the UNESCO World Heritage List.) Even though the mosaics on the walls have fallen off in places, they are still very impressive. The village where the tomb is located is also an important visiting point for Iranian Jews as it is the location of Ester Hatun Cemetery. For this reason, I am very surprised when I learn that tours from Turkey do not come to this village. Because this is truly a must-see place. Pigeon Tower While returning to Isfahan to visit the city, we stop by an interesting structure. It looks simple from the outside, but the bricks of the adobe building are stacked on top of each other with great skill. For this reason, it is a good example of folk architecture. When we enter the building, we encounter a surprising view and an interesting and beautiful architecture. The bricks stacked on top of each other and the spaces between them have become a nest for hundreds of pigeons. The purpose of this structure was to collect the pigeons’ feces and use them as fertilizer in the melon fields. We, three sportsman people, reach the top of the castle by climbing the high steps and narrow stairs. We are faced with a scene that will make those who do not come out regret it. We watch the entire view of Isfahan from a bird’s eye view from all four sides of the tower. It’s actually worth our tiredness. Meanwhile, as the only lady going upstairs, of course I also wander into a market where the famous Iranian tea is sold, which the other ladies discovered while waiting for us. I guess there is no tea or dates left in the shop after us 🙂 Isfahan Friday Mosque Next up is this magnificent structure on the UNESCO World Heritage List. The mosque, also known as the Ulu Mosque, dates back to the 8th century and bears the traces of Seljuk architecture. This place is like a rare Islamic museum with all the features of the Baroque Safavid architecture of the 16th century. The domed, four-iwan, large and open courtyard mosque, which is the indispensable plan of Islamic architecture in Iran, has set an example for the mosques built in later periods as an architecture specific to Iran. We can even call this place the best example of Islamic architecture. We enter the mosque through the magnificent, iwan-shaped, tiled door from the Seljuk period. The courtyard in front of us is the largest courtyard we have seen in Iran and there is a large pool fountain in the middle. The wonderful-looking iwans in the middle of the four facades surrounding the courtyard are two-storey, arched and completely covered with tiles from the 15th century. While blue and turquoise colors and blue-white calligraphy were used on the exterior, yellow tones created contrast on the interior. The mihrab hall, brick-built dome, magnificent columns and decorations in the mosque survived a huge fire and fortunately survived with little damage. The mihrab of the mosque located in the complex is decorated with the “stucco” motifs we see in the Pir-i Bakran Tomb and covered with calligraphy. In order for you to better understand this magnificent structure, which does not have such an impressive appearance in any Islamic work and words are inadequate, I leave the word to the photographs… During our trip to Iran, we saw so many beautiful architectural works that I cannot describe with words, the photographs support me in this regard. Vank Cathedral: The history of Vank Cathedral, one of the most important centers of worship for Armenians living in Isfahan and the southern regions of the country, dates back to the Shah Abbas period. After Shah Abbas made the city the capital, he was concerned that there were not enough non-Muslims in the city and that trade would not develop, so he brought Armenian merchants from Julfa, Azerbaijan, to Isfahan, south of the river. There is a clock tower above the entrance gate of the cathedral. The bell tower, which stands out as soon as you enter the garden after the entrance, dates back to 1774. The building is quite plain when viewed from the outside. However, once inside, the richly painted walls and embroidered ceiling are worth seeing. The creation myth describing Adam’s expulsion from heaven is painted on the dome. In other paintings, many subjects such as Typhoon, Noah’s ark, Babylon, the Last Supper, Jesus and his family, various stages of Moses and Mary are covered. The paintings date from the 17th century and are a mixture of Muslim Persian, Italian and Dutch painting. A fire is burning in a corner of the garden, in memory of the Armenian massacre that we all know… The day before we visited the cathedral, it was the 350th anniversary of the cathedral. For this reason, Aram I, one of the prominent religious leaders of the Armenians, Isfahan Mayor Murtaza Shekainejad, Zoroastrian, Jewish and Muslim clergy also attended the ceremony. Some of these guests were also staying at our hotel. Guests were welcomed with red carpets. However, since we checked out of the hotel after the departure of the team, we could not reach the red carpet and could not walk on it 🙂 Forty Columns / Chehel Sutun Palace Chehel Sutun, one of the most beautiful palaces and historical buildings of Isfahan, meaning “40 columns”, actually had 20 columns. So, let me explain why it is called 40 columns. The palace has a history of 400 years. It is located in a heavenly botanical garden with a surface area of ​​67,000 m². There is a giant pool in front of it. In order to see the other 20 columns, we need to look at this giant pool that lies right in front of the palace and its reflection… But we see that not all 20 columns are reflected in the same frame at the same time. First of all, the pool water is quite dirty and cloudy. Therefore, we could not find a point where all 20 columns were reflected. Anyway, let’s not spoil the magic and let me tell you about the beauties of the palace. The palace, whose construction started during the reign of Shah Abbas I, was built to be used in the Shah’s entertainment and reception ceremonies. The ceiling decorations carried by the wooden columns and the decorations on the forehead look quite worn out. Following these columns, you go to the entrance courtyard of the palace. The entrance door to the palace is again inside an iwan and the ceiling is again decorated with honeycomb ceiling and mirror decorations. When we enter the palace, the walls decorated with ceramics and fresco paintings, especially the ceiling, look very nice. Some historical events are depicted on the paintings on the walls. Among these is the Battle of Chaldiran, fought with Selim I. In addition to those depicting historical events, there are also compositions that are not very historical in content, are made in the traditional miniature style and look more aesthetic. For example; çengis, chicks, zennes and even boys’ dances at invitations and banquets. As Omar Khayyam said: There are black-eyed houris in heaven, and the best drink is there. Well, we are in heaven. Look, wine on one side, lover on the other… According to the information given by our guide, many of the ceramic panels of the palace were removed over time and unfortunately took their place in the big museums in the west. We were surprised to see the Unesco World Heritage emblem at the entrance of the palace. Because this palace is not on the list I have. Our Turkish guide is also unfamiliar with the subject, and our local guide confirms the emblem. However, my research is negative… The rest of my article will include Imam Square, the second largest square in the world, and mosques. Third Day in Isfahan Imam Square (Nakş-ı Jahan) I didn’t know what to say or write about this square. Because whatever I say would be too little. It is necessary to see, walk, live. I don’t know why we don’t have such a square, or even why we are trying to destroy what we have, but it wouldn’t be a lie if I said I was jealous. They also thought of and built this structure in the 17th century. Imam Square is one of the largest squares in the world. In fact, it is the second largest square in the world after Tiananmen Square in Beijing. Naqsh-e Jahan Square (Imam Khomeini Square) has also taken its place on the World Heritage List. As soon as I stepped into the square, I felt relief and peace. I looked around confused, wondering where to start taking photos, what to shoot, and how I could fit it all into one frame. I mentioned before; Because Isfahan owes its beauty to Shah Abbas. Here we understand this situation once again. When Shah Abbas decided to make Isfahan the capital of his empire, he wanted to build a unique square here that would show the power of his empire. Architect Ali Akbar gifted this magnificent park to the Shah and the people of Isfahan. French poet Mathurin Regnier admires this square and expresses his admiration by calling it “Nakl-ı Cihan”, which means “Square of the Image of the World”. The square, which is 513 meters long and 163 meters wide, is twice the size of Red Square in Moscow. It is surrounded by a two-storey arched structure on all four sides. The middle is as green as it can be, full of grass, flowers and trees. All of these fill people with peace. At the short northern end of the square, there is the Shah Caravanserai and a bazaar where all kinds of souvenirs and covers made of the famous Isfahan fabric are sold. There is Ali Kapı Palace on the western edge, Sheikh Lütfullah Mosque on the east, and Imam Mosque on the southern edge. We will visit them all, but I don’t know if one day will be enough. Imam Mosque (Masjid al-Imam) Another magnificent structure is before us in all its majesty. The entrance is made through a 30-meter-high iwan gate, which is one of the largest portals in Iran and from Imam Square, which looks like a part of the square. The semi-domed interior area has gained depth with muqarnas-like spherical triangles. On each side, there are minarets, 42 meters high and dominated by turquoise color. Traditional Iranian flower motifs symbolizing abundance and abundance were used in the decorations of the mosque. The facade is decorated with deep blue tiles. However, our guide warns us; When Shah Abbas rushed to see the work completed before his death, most of the mosque’s covering was done with a different technique instead of tile mosaic, but most of it could not be finished before his death. The ground plan and architectural style of the mosque was designed in accordance with the simplicity approach of Islam. The courtyard is in the classical Seljuk order, with an iwan on each of its four sides and a tower built on one of them. There is a fountain with a pool in the middle of the courtyard. The entire weight of the mosque was carried on octagonal columns to ensure wide viewing angles. The main dome is decorated with white and gold gilded arabesques on a blue background. We captured a very interesting image while taking photos of the dome. When viewed from a certain point, a triangular beam of light fell on the decorations at the top of the dome. It was really impressive. The main hall is covered with a single dome. However, its roof consists of two domes, 38 and 50 meters high, intertwined to provide acoustics. According to an interesting study, it was determined that sound was reflected and spread everywhere in the hall 49 times, but the human ear was sensitive to only 12 of them. The mosque is completely and simply magnificent, befitting this square. Especially in the evening, when the weather starts to get dark and all the buildings, mosques and the square are illuminated, the atmosphere of the square gradually changes and the beauty increases even more. Since the mosque was built in the 17th century as a dedication to Shah Abbas, its name was Shah Mosque, but after the Islamic revolution, its name was changed to Imam Mosque (Masjid-i Imam). Sheikh Lutfullah Masjid This small mosque is located within the Imam Square complex. As the name suggests, this masjid was built for Sheikh Lutfullah, who was one of the leaders of the Imami sect and was very loved and respected after settling in Isfahan. The striking feature of the mosque is that it does not have a minaret. Its back is covered with tiles and its 13-meter diameter dome also has decorations in yellow-beige, white, blue and black. The building does not have a minaret, nor does it have a courtyard. An octagonal plan was used instead of a square plan to make the building, which we would call a small mosque or even a masjid, look richer. All calligraphy in the Imam Mosque and Sheikh Lutfullah Masjid are the work of Tabriz calligrapher Ali Riza Abbasi. This place was called “Women’s Masjid” for a while, and the reason for this was that the women of the palace came to worship in this mosque without being seen by anyone, through a secret tunnel that was said to be between the Ali Kapı Palace and the Ali Kapı Palace. Ali Kapı Palace / Kakh-ı Ali Gapu (Ali’s Gate) The palace, located opposite the Sheikh Lutfullah Mosque, dates back to the 17th century, has 6 floors and is 48 meters high. This is a palace where Shah Abbas received important personalities and ambassadors, loved to spend his days, and also watched the activities and festivities of the royal family in the square. The mosaics and reliefs we saw while climbing the spiral stairs to the upper floors were severely damaged. The niches in the music rooms on the top floor were made for both decorative and acoustic purposes. Again, 3 of us go up to the top floor of the building and add the magnificent bird’s eye view of Imam Square to our photographs. The restaurant we went to for lunch was beautiful enough to suit this beautiful square. The food was very delicious and it was a nice place. The cafe we ​​went to for a coffee was a very interesting place; It’s a crowded but interesting place filled with hundreds of antiques. If hookah smoking wasn’t allowed and it wasn’t full of smoke, it could really be a recommended place. Fourth Day in Isfahan We visited two very important and valuable people in Isfahan. We went to both of them by appointment, chatted and got information. Fire Temple On our last day in Isfahan, our first appointment in the morning is a Fire Temple. Those who follow my Iran articles will remember; I also mentioned Zoroastrians while describing our visit to Ateshgede – House of Fire in the city of Yazd. ( http://Mavimore.com/GeziNotlari/ruzgari-yakalayan-sehir-yezd ) Today we have an important House of Fire visit in Isfahan. We have an appointment with the priest or “Banana”. We will also listen to his philosophies and ask him what we are curious about and want to learn. He welcomes us with a smiling face. Of course, there is a constantly burning fire here, as in every home. We sit on the benches they show us and start chatting. First, he briefly tells us about the Zoroastrians or Zoroastrians and Mandeism. In short, their philosophy is as follows: “Think right, say right, do right. Just be a decent man!” The meaning of the fire that is burned to never go out is this: Fire destroys all evil, where there is fire, there is no evil, fire gives light, illuminates the way, gives light. They believe that light and luminaries are the physical representation of God Ahura Mazda. Otherwise, they do not worship fire at all (After I returned, while researching and reading information about Zoroastrians on the internet, this sentence caught my attention: “Those who worship fire”. However, this gentleman tells us that this is absolutely wrong.) You do not have to leave the religion you believe in to become a Zoroastrian. Both Muslims, Christians, etc. You can belong to any religion and still be a Zoroastrian. Yes, we are in the 20th century; Instead of fire, there is electricity to light our way. It is true, they do not reject technology, on the contrary, they use it. For example, the burning fire never goes out thanks to natural gas, and yes, he also uses the internet. The important thing is that the fire, perhaps the fire within us, never goes out. We met Hossein Fallahi, a world-famous Miniature master, genius and master. We are lucky, Fallahi, who has received invitations from all over the world, has just returned home and welcomes us with sincerity and a smiling face. We start chatting, he explains, and we ask what we are curious about. Miniature: Very finely processed and small-sized paintings are called miniatures. Miniature is an art consisting of small pictures that are delicately processed and used as page decoration. The name miniature derives from the Latin word “minimum”, meaning “lead oxide, which gives the red color to paint”. Iran is a country that has given life to many branches of art with its deep-rooted history and traditions dating back to ancient times. In addition to decorations such as mirror decorations, glass objects, tiles and mosaics that I have described in my articles and seen in many places, miniatures are also very common in Iran. The miniature brush is made from Persian cat hair and pigeon feathers. The material on which the miniatures are made is made of camel bone. For larger sizes, in addition to pressing bone, handmade paper, leather and rarely ivory were used. The depictions consist of scenes from Iranian culture, subjects taken from the poems of Iranian poets (such as Khayyam, Hafez, Firdevsi, Sadi), and mostly topics such as tribal life, polo players, hunting scenes. After this nice and informative conversation, he starts scribbling something on a small piece of paper and creates a masterfully drawn portrait in a few minutes. This is both his workplace where he sells and his workshop, where he works with his students. The walls are full of miniatures of various sizes, all of them are more beautiful than the other, no matter which one I look at, I see a different beauty. I definitely want to buy one of these works. When I look at the prices, I see that sometimes a small painting is quite expensive, while a larger one is much more affordable. I’m asking, the expensive ones are the ones made by the teacher’s own hands and his signature on them, and the cheaper ones are the ones made by the teacher’s students. In addition to student miniatures, we also buy signed works of the teacher. After tea, we leave the workshop of this lovely, friendly master. I am happy to be a guest in a different country by completing a trip more smoothly. As we were returning home with memories, I thought for a while… My expectations when going to Iran did not go beyond what I imagined. But I return home having learned a lot about old civilizations, religions and sects. It was wonderful to see magnificent Islamic works, traditional handicrafts and local carpets decorated with mirror, tile and mosaic workmanship. I met a world-famous miniature master, watched him work, witnessed how skillfully he used his pen, and bought some of his works. Our trip was smooth, enjoyable and full. I am very glad that I went to Iran, and I strongly recommend that you also take the opportunity to go and see it. Be sure to see many beautiful works… Mavimore Tourism is a travel agency registered with TÜRSAB. Document number: A-8307